Tilts and how to tie them down….(This topic was the idea of and written by Richard Bilbé and I have added some of my experiences along the way.)
Before we start…why “tilt” ? is question that crops up as often as how to tie them down.
The Oxford English Dictionary tells us that
tilt is an Anglo-Saxon word for a canvas (or other course type cloth) covering, tent or awning. Later in the middle ages it extended to covers for small boats and later still covers for farm wagons. Similar to a tarpaulin.
This “agricultural” usage would have been the natural Land Rover description for the canvas cover, as Land Rovers were conceived and designed for agricultural and farming use.
Here is a LR diagram of what entails a canvas or tilt cover…
They now come in a variety of colours, with or without side windows.
Here are the
Exmoor Trim Canvas Fitting Instructions and the following pictures should explain how it all goes together.
Often the tie downs are missing from the rear tub.
Note these are “handed”
All these are available separately from places like Exmoor Trim Ltd.
First how the ¾ tilt ties down at the front to a truck cab top.This one show the arrangement around the truckcab rear frame.
And a close up of the hook position for the front of the side panels on the tilt.
An interior view showing how the tilts fits around the truckcab rear frame.
Another interior view showing the metal strips that are required to hold the canvas to the shape of the truckcab rear frame.
OK, this one is actually a full tilt, but shows the what a ¾ tilt should look like from the back, when it's all tied down. From the rear, the full and ¾ tilts work exactly the same.
Full Tilt fitment and Roping:These photos show how the canvas tilt is fitted, as well as showing how the canvas is roped down.
We'll start at the front, with the windscreen top rail, commonly referred to as 'the shark's tooth rail'.
This shows the interior, and how the frame bolts up together across the top of the windscreen.
These show the arrangement around the rear of the doors, inside and outside.
These also show how the canvas tucks into a channel in the door framework, which stops the wind getting inside the canvas.
This shows the location of the hook at the front of the side panel in more detail. Note: these little hooks are handed!
And the alternative strapping arrangements for tensioning the tilt over the cab area.
The left hand strap shows the arrangement needed if a fume curtain is fitted (see later photos of fume curtain fitment) where the strap goes round a 'staple' mounted on the front bulkhead of the rear tub.
The right hand strap shows the more normal arrangement, where the strap doubled back to a 'staple' mounted on the top of the windscreen rail.
This one show the lacing of the side panel bottom ropes. The exposed sections of the rope loop around the hooks on the tub, is tensioned up and tied off around the loop or hook on the rear, as shown below.
This shows the side panel bottom rope tied off at the rear, and how the upper rear rope is threaded through the tilt at the rear, and is then tied off, holding the side panels in place in the process.
and from a different angle
All tied down!
A couple of photos showing a Fume Curtain fitted in a full tilt.From the cab.
From the load bay.
The arrangements of the straps on fume curtains tend to vary according to the manufacturer. The curtain in my photos has extra straps that should fit around the front hoop of the stickset, but these would severely interfere with the operation of my seat belts, so I have to come to a compromise as to which ones get done up and those that don't.
The bottom of the fume curtain tucks behind the seats in my case.
This shows how the rear should look when all tied down. The rear panel flaps are tucked through the pockets in the side panels, and are buckled up, and the rear flap bottom rope (bungee cord in my case - it's easier :-*) is tied off across the rear.
And some close ups of the fittings on the rear panel - The later type:
and the earlier type:
Additional ideas....Ropes, originally these would have been of hemp.
A good modern replacement would be window sash cord, available from all good hardware stores.
The ends of the rope were fitted into brass ferrules to stop fraying.
New tilts now come with a grey polypropylene cable lay rope. The blue version is readily available.
The ends of the rope are now heat melted.
Some people fit elastic shock cord instead of ropes, makes it easier to undo and tie down.
Also, some like me (Wittsend) fit garden canes in the two side and rear bottom rope pockets.
This makes rolling up the sides and rear flap a real easy peasy quick operation.
Water proofing and cleaning:A new tilt will have been proofed and pre-shrunk in the factory.
Remember that the canvas is made from a heavy-duty cotton which is a natural product.
A new tilt will shrink. It is important to fit and tie the new tilt down well and check when it rains that it is tied down, after 2 or 3 wettings it should have shrunk as much as it's going to.
Don't fit elastic shock cord until it has shrunk down.
There are several water proofing products you can use to re-proof the tilt. Go to your local camping/caravan store for a selection. But Thompsons Weather seal (a silicone oil product from places like B&Q, £10 for 5 litres) works well.
How often depends on your local rainfall. You will know when it needs doing as the water will not "bead" on the outer surface and water will soak through to the inside. It may even start dripping in worn/thin places.
You can use a big (4") brush to paint the proofer on. Be careful to wipe spills off the body work and don't get the silicone stuff on the windscreen if you can help it.
Cleaning, plenty of water and a detergent suitable for woollens like Lux or Dreft. Use a scrubbing brush to work on ingrained dirt. Don't be tempted to use a pressure washer. You can be left with horrible streaky jet lines. It will take 6 months for them to "wear out" (don't ask how I know).
You can clean on or off the vehicle, but when finished, replace and tie down well to prevent shrinkage. Leave 2 to 3 days to properly dry out before re-proofing.
Inside you can get black mold type spots. A dilute bleach solution (10% Domestos) gently brushed in, left 10 minutes and then well rinsed should bleach the spores and kill them.
Regular water proofing should also help prevent mould from growing.
Dilute bleach will also get rid of any nasty green leaf marks left on the outside after you have been greenlaning.
Repairing the tilt:Small holes and rips can be repaired. Most camping shops sell a canvas repair kit. And it's worth keeping or finding some old bits of tilt as repair patches. Use a rubber latex type glue (Copydex works well) to stick patches on from the inside. Or if your stitching is neat, use a sail makers needle and thread. Attend to damage ASAP as the cloth will fray.
The "acetate" windows can get punctured and riped and over time they go opaque. You can get new windows sown it at most Marinas, where ever there is a boat chandlery. They will know of people who can repair boat covers - they are basically the same as tilts.
:skip
