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Author Topic: Front crank seal replacement  (Read 1206 times)
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Wittsend
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« on: December 14, 2007, 05:52:46 PM »

Pictures courtesy of our friend down-under, Dennis.....


Here's the mud retainer ring deriveted from the timing cover. Note those rivet pins. Some POs when doing this job are lazy and they just knock them back into the sump and leave them there! When they do the job in situ.
Better if you can remove the timing cover and do a proper job.


So you drill out the holes...


Then you tap out the holes...for 3/16" W screws


Job finished with the new retaining ring screws in place.
All ready to be refitted to the block and the new crank seal pressed carefully home.

This mod should make replacing the seal much easier in the future.

« Last Edit: December 16, 2007, 04:44:39 PM by Wittsend » Logged


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Tom 109
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« Reply #1 on: December 14, 2007, 06:52:14 PM »

Hmm, another job I've been putting off...

Thanks for the reminder Dennis,

Tom P.
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martin.l
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« Reply #2 on: December 14, 2007, 07:31:45 PM »

Why 3/16W? 2BA is a similar outside diameter but with a finer pitch
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Wittsend
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« Reply #3 on: December 14, 2007, 07:42:44 PM »

No doubt we will be told...but maybe that's all the Australian had in stock :teatime
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craggle
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« Reply #4 on: December 14, 2007, 09:48:00 PM »

Cast materials are quite soft so most manufacturers will use a course thread to allow a bigger thread cross section. That's why Rover V8's are all UNC threads as the block is cast aluminium.

Personally I would use metric threads but if you have the bolts to hand then I guess any threads will do.

Craig.
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Dinty
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« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2007, 09:26:39 AM »

G'day All, Craggle hit the nail on the head, with thread sizes and Cast iron, and way back in the 60-70's metric was something that applied to Jap stuff, well it was here in Australia :-*, I'm into model engineering as well, and yes I do use some fine threads i.e BA and ME stuff, BA screws are very exxie$$$$$ and nowadays difficult to get in a particular head shapes etc, so I scrounge all BA hex heads and others for future use anyway rabbiting on here cheers Dennis :skip
PS Thanks Wittsend for posting the pix, but at my end (in Oz) the 2nd pic is just an X in a box? maybe a problem in my computer.
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redgr9
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« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2007, 09:53:07 AM »

3/16" Whitworth thread form is better into Cast Iron or aluminum to help prevent stripping when extracting a tight screw. However when I want Whitworth taps they are now always a special order but no problem to obtain. However you have difficulty buying small quantities of screws and have to order full boxes.  Not a problem with 2BA because it is common electrical use and toolrooms use it and not Whitworth 3/16".
I think I will order a box of suitable Whitworth screws in advance of doing this jobnext time.

With a later all metric (so called) engine then I would use metric but again not too easy obtaining metric course taps and screws  (special order for taps and full boxes only of screws).

regards
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martin.l
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« Reply #7 on: December 16, 2007, 03:52:43 PM »

It seems that all English threads are now "non-preferred" UNF & UNC are common enough but metric is slowly taking over, does nothing but push up the price of stuff that we want  :-\
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Wittsend
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« Reply #8 on: December 16, 2007, 04:45:26 PM »

Sorry about the missing pic...I can't count.  :snow bounce
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